Moreton Island - Queensland, Australia - 2004

Moreton Bay consists of a 100km expanse of water and is sheltered by a band of long sand islands. The eastern beaches of these islands, Bribie, Moreton, North Stradbroke and South Stradbroke are pounded by the Pacific Ocean and it is said that there are 365 sheltered islands in the bay.

We took our 4WD Pajero and visiting Uncle and Aunt from England on a 40km trip on the vehicular ferry the 'Combie Trader' departing from Scarborough Point on the mainland. The ferry crossing over Moreton Bay took about 2 hours until we drove off onto the beach at Bulwer. We had booked to stay in a room above the local shops. This was a good find, it could sleep 10 people and was very reasonably priced, plus the local store and bottle shop were downstairs and you were only about a 100m walk back to the beach. Bulwer is the site of a 19th century pilot station for ships entering Moreton Bay and was established in 1848 and closed in 1909. Now there are only some holiday homes, a general store, fishing supply shop and a petrol bowser. There are three scuttled boats from 1930 which were used to form a small boat harbour now lying on the beach.



Moreton Island is a large sand island noted for the height of its hills. Mount Tempest is said to the highest permanent sand mountain in the world at approximately 273 m. The 17,000 hectare island itself is 94% protected National Park and is surrounded by the waters of the Moreton Bay Marine Park.

Moreton Island was for thousands of years home to the "Ngugi" Aboriginal people. Captain Cook passed through the bay 1770 on the Endeavour and Matthew Flinders entered Moreton Bay in 1799 exploring southwards to the bay islands.

There are heaps of walking tracks to explore the sandhills and beaches, some are around 8-9km long. Camping is very popular and permits must be acquired from barge operators or rangers before a visit.

Tangalooma is the island's main settlement, where there is a resort transformed from the old whaling station that operated from 1951 until 1962, an artificial reef 'the Wrecks' made from 15 scuttled barges is great for snorkelling and viewing fish. The beach directly in front of the resort is purely for guests only - no 4wd and no pedestrian traffic. The Resort allows groups to hand feed dolphins (at a cost of course). This is a very popular resort for day trippers and weekenders because of its close proximity to Brisbane.

Blue Lagoon lake is the largest freshwater lake on the Island. The water is refreshed by rainwater filtered by the surrounding dunes. The sand here is white as white and pure.

You can purchase a permit for 4 wheel drive and off road access on the island as there are no sealed roads.

The inland 'highway', a 7km sandy track which winds up to camping grounds at Eagers Creek. You can head to Cape Moreton or Reeders Point.

Birds like honeyeaters, quails, kites, sea-eagles, pelicans are found here. Bandicoots are the largest marsupial found on the island, there are no kangaroos, wallabies or koalas. The island's waters are ideal for spotting marine life such as dugongs, dolphins, manta rays and turtles and Cape Moreton is a perfect spot to whale watch during the humpback migrations during June through to November as it rises 100m above sea level and offers views south to Stradbroke Island, west to Bribie Island and the Glass House Mountains and north and east across the Pacific Ocean. Cape Moreton also boasts Queensland's 1st Lighthouse, a 23m tower built in 1857 by prisoners out of local sandstone, but the actual lighthouse is closed to the public.

Fiji 2006

Malololailai Island Airport

Ratu Nemani Island Bar, Musket Cove Resort, Malololailai Island

Artwork in the restaurant at Musket Cove

Art feature the beautiful Nautilus shell.

Restaurant Staff, Dick's Place, Musket Cove Resort

Local lady at the neighbouring village - Shell Village

The band at Musket Cove around the Kava (yaqona) bowl.

Malololailai Island's Chapel

Feeding the fish at Musket Cove Marina

The band belting out a wicked island tune

Traditional Fijian dancing and the men's war dance

Island Hopping - Beachcomber Island

Looking towards Treasure Island from Beachcomber Island.

Plantation Island beach path.

Sunset at Ratu Nemani Island Bar, Musket Cove

Musket Cove - low tide

Private villa - Malololailai Island

Island Hopping - Waidigi Island (Private), near Malolo and Lako Mai Islands.

Hibiscus in bloom Musket Cove

Bure at the Malololailai Lagoon Resort Club

Musket Cove Resort

Island Hopping - Mana Island Resort private beachfront ocean view bures

Island Hopping - Castaway Island

Armstrong Island Villas, Malololailai Island, Musket Cove

FIJI 2003 - Naigani Island, Levuka, Ovalau and the Coral Coast

On this trip, we arrived in Nadi and the International Airport and then travelled up to Suva where we stayed overnight. Next day we had a mini-bus drive along some very bumpy roads to Natovi and then a transfer by launch over to Naigani Island. The whole trip took just under two hours.




 

Waiting for the launch at Natovi Landing.




Naigani Island is a 540 acre island in the Koro Sea off the eastern coast of Viti Levu. It is part of the Lomaiviti Group of islands which include Ovalau, Wakaya, Makogai, Nairai and Batiki islands. Naigani island resort is set on the beach at Natokalau Bay.




The people of Naigani very proud of their heritage and for generations have also protected their vanua (island) and its i qoliqoli (reefs and lagoons). Sacred flowers and songs are still part of everyday life, passed down through the generations. The traditions, beliefs and values of the Naigani Island people still prevail and due to their protective nuturing of the island's forests, gardens and agricultural resources they can still provide the same foods, medicines, perfumes and dyes that have been used for over 3,000 years.




In 1981, when work was being carried out on the Resort to build additional holiday homes, evidence was unearthed during drainage excavations, that the Fiji Islands were probably settled about 1590 BC. Lapita pottery was found. Authorities undertook the excavation and recovered pottery from this site that could have come from as far away as New Britain, off the northeast coast of New Guinea. The find was considered remarkable evidence for the crossing of the broad sea gap between Fiji and Melanesia and it suggested some sort of direct or indirect contact between the Lapita pottery using people of Fiji and northwest Melanesia over 3000 years ago.




Some Naigani Landmarks - The villagers from Naigani built Wailevu fort during the time of the tribal wars in Fiji. The Fort is on the highest point on the island's volcanic vent overlooking Canabuli Bay. Canabuili Beach is a secluded and protected beach with a backdrop of natural bush and a track and is an excellent snorkelling and picnic spot. Sova Bay, the Sacred Bay, is a very special place. It is believed that sardines spawn in an inland pond in the bay and that trevally come into the bay every morning and evening to chase the sardines. Sova in Fijian means basket - Sova Bay is a natural fish basket. Only Naigani villagers are permitted to catch fish in this bay with a hand net and can only take what can be eaten in that day. Whatever is left over by midnight of that day must be returned to the sea, bones and all. You can also visit the Cannibal Cave, where the locals would have prepared their "long pig". It's just around the point from Sova Bay. Some visitors (long pigs) became the delicacy of the day and were taken to the cave to be cooked. Just outside of the resort boundaries, there is a freshwater pond that the villagers claim has a permanent supply of fresh water, even in drought. The water looks like watery milk and traditional stories told say that it is the milk of their Vu, or founding ancestor, Naivodre, a woman.




Naigani Island's Trees of Life - Still typing - Info to come soon.







Other Excursions




For those who are able to scuba dive, from Naigaini you can get access to around 25 recognised dive sites which apparently have great visibility and variety. There was a dive shop on the island at the Resort.




The fishing is pretty good also, as this area is off the ‘tourist trail’ and therefore not overfished. At various times of the year there is a great a variety of fish such as marlin, sailfish, wahoo, yellow fin, mackerel, trevally. You can either go deep sea fishing or just throw in a handline.




We went to the neighbouring island of Ovalau for a a day trip (about 20 minutes by boat from Naigani) and then hopped on a covered utility truck with seating to be driven to the town of Levuka.







Levuka has a very important place in Fiji's history as it was the first permanent European settlement in the Pacific Islands, around 1830, and the first capital of Fiji. The local chiefs gave up trying to control the bad habits of the whalers, traders, sandalwood and beche de mer merchants, cotton and coconut planters and the sailors from all over the world that arrived on Ovalau. They would hit Levuka's bars and hotels hard and head on, causing a fair bit of ruckus along the way and there was no law and order. The islands were ceded to Queen Victoria in 1874 and Fiji became a British Colony. You can easily walk to the Cession Stone which commemorates the signing of the Deed of Cession.




After all the development and settlers, space for new accommodation and businesses became more and more rare on this little island of only 13km long and 11km wide, so the capital was moved to Suva. Levuka then quietened down as many people and businesses left. The old small wooden buildings and dusty quiet streets give you the feeling of still being in a 19th century town not much different to what it would have been like then. The Levuka Cultural & Historical Society was formed about 20 years ago to save Levuka's 'old time feel" and they plan to keep it that way.




 

The "Anniversary Bure" built for Prince Charles to use when Fiji was granted independence in 1970. There is a picture of Queen Elizabeth II on display inside.







You can also see many of the settlement buildings that were the "first" in Fiji and The Royal Hotel, the oldest hotel in Fiji which opened around 1850.




The main road in to Levuka town.




Unfortunately, we had to leave Naigani early as my son injured himself and we all became ill. At the time the Resort was up for sale and there were not many supplies there. The very helpful local staff helped me to book for The Hideaway Resort which is on the mainland, on the Coral Coast. They had a well stocked pharmacy and we were soon on our way to recovery.




At Hideaway there are many, many activities. The staff are cheerful and very helpful and motivate you into joining in. There was a good selection of food options at the resort and a fantastic cocktail bar overlooking the resort and toward the sea.




 Hideaway Resort Swimming Pool

There's is always something going on around the pool. The kids are well catered for in Fiji with activities and kids club.
























The 'dinner' drums are calling.









There were traditional dance performances and then cabaret style entertainment.








Our room here was well appointed and had a beautiful outdoor shower, well hidden from outside eyes by a curved mosaic wall.

Under The Sea in FIJI

One of our best snorkelling trips in Fiji was to the reef around Matamanoa Island which is a marine sanctuary. It was jump in, swim and snorkel as the boat is not allowed to anchor on the reef. The reef is like a garden!

F-ONE J-ONE - That's FIJI

Fiji is our favourite destination as a family. It is one of the most relaxing and enjoyable places to holiday and you can do it all without shoes on. You simply cannot rush as it doesn't get you anywhere, any faster!

Our mainstay piece of paradise in Fiji is Malololailai Island in the Mamanuca chain of islands off the coast about 30km from Nadi. We have timeshare at the Malololailai Lagoon Resort which shares facilities with the Musket Cove Resort. There are a number of private homes, some of which can be leased and also the Armstrong Island Villas. Plantation Island Resort and Anandas restaurant/bar and grocery store are affiliated with each other and offer lots variety.

There is a golf course (watch out for the coconut crab holes, you can lose golf balls down them, unless you are game enough to stick your hand in and get them), numerous swimming pools, restaurants and shops all very unintrusive. There is a very well stocked supermarket plus a cafe at the marina along with a water sports and activities hut plus a laundromat and public toilets and showers. The Musket Cove Resort holds an annual sailing regatta in September and that brings many yachties from all over the world for racing, but mostly for the huge party that goes on for weeks. The winners' names and their boats are carved into the wood in the restaurant and bar 'Dick's Place'. There is also the Airport with the strip running through the middle of the island separating the two distinct resort 'camps'. Pedestrians must give way to low-flying aircraft. Beware, there are no warning lights and the airport is two wooden benches and one staff member who checks you in, checks the plane out and loads the baggage! Multi-tasking is a Fijian way of life.

The Ratu Nemani Island Bar is one of the best finds - a barefoot bar where you can just 'come as you are'. It is very well known and frequented by those who just want to relax and not dress up. Here you can cook on the barbeque (with pre-packed bbq pack from the supermarket - about FJD$12). There is wood and paper for you to start the fire and the girls at the bar will provide lighters, crockery and cutlery and lots of smiles. They will also serve you drinks at reduced prices (much cheaper than the restaurants) and keep on serving you until you want to walk back to your bure.

Our timeshare has authentic bure accommodation with thatched roof and tapa cloth walls, but with a modern twist, full kitchen and a full bathroom.

We have met many people on our visits to Fiji. We return again and again. We met the Damuni family on Lako Mai Island when it was a timeshare. It is now called the Resort Walu Beach. They have worked very hard to be able to buy their own home in Nadi and now work at Plantation Island Resort. Marco is head chef and Kitty works in accounts, reception and the restaurant. The children stay in their family home and go to school while the parents are working on the island. The children cannot visit their parents at the island because of company policy so the parents must commute back during their short few days off.

The Liku Liku Resort is on Malolo Island which you can see when you go on a boat ride around the other side of the island and was Fiji's first resort with overwater bungalows.