FIJI 2003 - Naigani Island, Levuka, Ovalau and the Coral Coast



On this trip, we arrived in Nadi and the International Airport and then travelled up to Suva where we stayed overnight. Next day we had a mini-bus drive along some very bumpy roads to Natovi and then a transfer by launch over to Naigani Island. The whole trip took just under two hours.




 
Waiting for the launch at Natovi Landing.




Naigani Island is a 540 acre island in the Koro Sea off the eastern coast of Viti Levu. It is part of the Lomaiviti Group of islands which include Ovalau, Wakaya, Makogai, Nairai and Batiki islands. Naigani island resort is set on the beach at Natokalau Bay.




The people of Naigani very proud of their heritage and for generations have also protected their vanua (island) and its i qoliqoli (reefs and lagoons). Sacred flowers and songs are still part of everyday life, passed down through the generations. The traditions, beliefs and values of the Naigani Island people still prevail and due to their protective nuturing of the island's forests, gardens and agricultural resources they can still provide the same foods, medicines, perfumes and dyes that have been used for over 3,000 years.




In 1981, when work was being carried out on the Resort to build additional holiday homes, evidence was unearthed during drainage excavations, that the Fiji Islands were probably settled about 1590 BC. Lapita pottery was found. Authorities undertook the excavation and recovered pottery from this site that could have come from as far away as New Britain, off the northeast coast of New Guinea. The find was considered remarkable evidence for the crossing of the broad sea gap between Fiji and Melanesia and it suggested some sort of direct or indirect contact between the Lapita pottery using people of Fiji and northwest Melanesia over 3000 years ago.




Some Naigani Landmarks - The villagers from Naigani built Wailevu fort during the time of the tribal wars in Fiji. The Fort is on the highest point on the island's volcanic vent overlooking Canabuli Bay. Canabuili Beach is a secluded and protected beach with a backdrop of natural bush and a track and is an excellent snorkelling and picnic spot. Sova Bay, the Sacred Bay, is a very special place. It is believed that sardines spawn in an inland pond in the bay and that trevally come into the bay every morning and evening to chase the sardines. Sova in Fijian means basket - Sova Bay is a natural fish basket. Only Naigani villagers are permitted to catch fish in this bay with a hand net and can only take what can be eaten in that day. Whatever is left over by midnight of that day must be returned to the sea, bones and all. You can also visit the Cannibal Cave, where the locals would have prepared their "long pig". It's just around the point from Sova Bay. Some visitors (long pigs) became the delicacy of the day and were taken to the cave to be cooked. Just outside of the resort boundaries, there is a freshwater pond that the villagers claim has a permanent supply of fresh water, even in drought. The water looks like watery milk and traditional stories told say that it is the milk of their Vu, or founding ancestor, Naivodre, a woman.




Naigani Island's Trees of Life - Still typing - Info to come soon.







Other Excursions




For those who are able to scuba dive, from Naigaini you can get access to around 25 recognised dive sites which apparently have great visibility and variety. There was a dive shop on the island at the Resort.




The fishing is pretty good also, as this area is off the ‘tourist trail’ and therefore not overfished. At various times of the year there is a great a variety of fish such as marlin, sailfish, wahoo, yellow fin, mackerel, trevally. You can either go deep sea fishing or just throw in a handline.




We went to the neighbouring island of Ovalau for a a day trip (about 20 minutes by boat from Naigani) and then hopped on a covered utility truck with seating to be driven to the town of Levuka.







Levuka has a very important place in Fiji's history as it was the first permanent European settlement in the Pacific Islands, around 1830, and the first capital of Fiji. The local chiefs gave up trying to control the bad habits of the whalers, traders, sandalwood and beche de mer merchants, cotton and coconut planters and the sailors from all over the world that arrived on Ovalau. They would hit Levuka's bars and hotels hard and head on, causing a fair bit of ruckus along the way and there was no law and order. The islands were ceded to Queen Victoria in 1874 and Fiji became a British Colony. You can easily walk to the Cession Stone which commemorates the signing of the Deed of Cession.




After all the development and settlers, space for new accommodation and businesses became more and more rare on this little island of only 13km long and 11km wide, so the capital was moved to Suva. Levuka then quietened down as many people and businesses left. The old small wooden buildings and dusty quiet streets give you the feeling of still being in a 19th century town not much different to what it would have been like then. The Levuka Cultural & Historical Society was formed about 20 years ago to save Levuka's 'old time feel" and they plan to keep it that way.




 
The "Anniversary Bure" built for Prince Charles to use when Fiji was granted independence in 1970. There is a picture of Queen Elizabeth II on display inside.







You can also see many of the settlement buildings that were the "first" in Fiji and The Royal Hotel, the oldest hotel in Fiji which opened around 1850.




The main road in to Levuka town.




Unfortunately, we had to leave Naigani early as my son injured himself and we all became ill. At the time the Resort was up for sale and there were not many supplies there. The very helpful local staff helped me to book for The Hideaway Resort which is on the mainland, on the Coral Coast. They had a well stocked pharmacy and we were soon on our way to recovery.




At Hideaway there are many, many activities. The staff are cheerful and very helpful and motivate you into joining in. There was a good selection of food options at the resort and a fantastic cocktail bar overlooking the resort and toward the sea.




 Hideaway Resort Swimming Pool

There's is always something going on around the pool. The kids are well catered for in Fiji with activities and kids club.
























The 'dinner' drums are calling.









There were traditional dance performances and then cabaret style entertainment.








Our room here was well appointed and had a beautiful outdoor shower, well hidden from outside eyes by a curved mosaic wall.

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